“Save the best for last”… In this case, the phrase couldn’t ring more true. The NYFW, LFW and MFW Fall 2014 collections were amazing, but Paris Fashion Week – as always – was the definitive voice of the season. I liked most of the collections, and had to really try hard to break down the best of the best. Below are my top 8:
Controlled gathers, 3D contours and large-scale folds – Akris assumed the role of Edo-era sculptors in an elaborate spectacle of high dressmaking. The Thomas Ruff-inspired prints made for an extra smart collection to boot. The brand’s creative director, Albert Kriemler, was definitely in control of his material from the beginning until the end, and the marvel was how modest they were.
At Balmain, the detailing of the Fall 2014 collection was the stand out feature. Embracing modernity and tribal influence, bandeau skirts, military-inspired jackets with cinched waists, tops with peplum finishes paired with leather pants and opaque leggings, as well as dresses and skirts made of intertwined ropes were out in force. The shoes etched with intricate patterns gave a top-notch glamazon feel to Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing’s pieces too!
You can always count on Karl Lagerfeld’s runways to be among the most interesting each season, and Fall certainly was no different. Sweatpants and T-shirts at the grocery store? Not for the inimitable German designer!Taking place in a huge and luxuriously branded Chanel supermarket which was briefly installed in the Grand Palais, the Chanel show was visually striking. Models were clad in signature tweeds in over-sized shapes and metallic leggings, and sneakers topped off every look. Who says you have to suffer for fashion?
Givenchy created elegant, gothic pieces with a distinctly modern and urban vibe – as only Riccardo Tisci could. However, for this season, he veered away from his streetwear-inspired aesthetic and presented a womanly, very French collection. Think silk blouses with soft pleats, skirts with graceful folds and puffy fur coats. Fall found itself in a hairy situation as the ubiquitous trimming was the choice of adornment. As the show progressed, the animal prints got bolder as well. Oh, to be able to afford an entire wardrobe of Givenchy!
Sweeping through A/W (quite literally) were Haider Ackermann’s duster coats and sleeves that extended past the normal length. The Colombian designer made subtle updates to other wardrobe classics and featured menswear-inspired pieces done in a dark palette. He certainly hit the bull’s eye with clothes created with delicacy and precision. With his talent and vision, no wonder this once-underground it-designer has quickly evolved into a major fashion player!
It’s a new decade and Twiggy’s look made a dramatic shift, resulting in a bricolage of visual art at Louis Vuitton. A-line silhouettes, raised waistlines with geometrically printed yokes, slim leather black coats with collars in contrasting colours and Chelsea boots boasted a nice 60s swagger. Nicolas Ghesquière inaugural collection for the French fashion house proved that he’s an expert in combining beautiful colours and fabrics – the main reason why I have loved him since his Balenciaga days.
A hybrid leather moto jacket and tailored blazer, a flannel skirt with pleats spliced with chiffon, a sweater cross-pollinated with a hoodie. The Sacai Fall 2014 collection masterfully put together pieces that looked like they were scavenged or rummaged through closeted knick-knacks! The pieces looked challenging but at the same time, they also looked effortlessly cool and totally grounded in wearability. What’s not to love?
VIKTOR & ROLF
Viktor & Rolf presented a collection in a muted palette, but it was undoubtedly not boring. In fact, it was a visual feast for the eyes! Knitwear was taken to the chicest level – elongated wool dress with an asymmetrical hemline and sweaters with graphic patterns. Some glamorous elements were seen in the form of crystal-embroidered details, sheer sleeves and velvet separates too. The Amsterdam-based fashion duo had me at their luscious knitwear numbers!
P.S. Okay, honestly, I could go on and rave about the other collections, including Barbara Bui, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli, Isabel Marant and Zadig & Voltaire, among others!
Image credit: NYTimes
Article by me; published in Tongue in Chic