We’ve run down our favourites off NYFW and LFW, and we’ll be on to Paris next, but today’s special ‘cos we’ve got inspiring looks from Milan! Read on to find out my top eight collections from MFW S/S’15:
DOLCE & GABBANA
Dolce & Gabbana turned its models into seductive señoritas this Spring. Think sexy lace and sheer dresses, crisp brocade jackets, heavily embroidered tops, flounced skirts and not to mention, flowers in the hair. Black provided a great contrast and balance to a colour palette that’s based on red.
Despite the distinct Spanish influence, the collection was theatrical, but not to a fault. Some ensembles were made modern such as the midi and crop lengths on shirts and skirts, and pairing boleros with high-waist shorts. The attention to detail is an area in which the Italian design duo never fails to disappoint!
Fendi took inspiration from its new Roman headquarters, the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, an iconic project initiated by Benito Mussolini. The fusion of fashion and architecture has been seen in several runways, yet Fendi’s insertion of ’70s twist made the silhouettes sculptural and intertwined details much more amazing.
Strong linear elements were everywhere! Highlights for me were the 3D appliqués as stylised prints, caged cut-outs revealing peeks of collarbones and midriffs, hemlines finely sliced into fringe strips and knife pleated tops, dresses and bottoms. Mussolini would have been very proud!
When mesh, denim and leather are mixed, the result is usually very casual. Gabriele Colangelo used the same fabrics for his Spring collection, yet each look was very polished. Thanks to his angular asymmetrical layering of fabrics, which were placed at different lengths to construct 3D pockets and pleated skirts, and a panelled coat cut with paper-like precision, it was easy to see why this designer made it to the shortlist for LVMH’s new Young Designer Award.
Les Copains delivered a balanced, pared down and contemporary collection. Breezy tops varied in texture, from geometric patterns and jungle leaves that appeared as intarsia patterns on knits and jackets.
The brand interpreted the sportswear trend as well – albeit lightly – in a flowing organza parka and wide track pants. My favourite piece? The mini dress in soft laser-cut leather with an intricate pattern. Sleek and chic!
MARCO DE VINCENZO
Marco de Vincenzo reworked fabrics to an impressive effect for his Spring collection. The check theme ran throughout in different iterations, but my favourite has got to be the swing skirt, on which the checks fell diagonally, which was paired with a crop top with overstated checks.
Then there were coats and skirt suits, which were heavily fringed, and ribbed knit dresses that revealed their full colours when in motion. The fabrics were like no one else’s!
Marni’s sculptural simplicity and mastery of art and cultural mix-and-match are just some of the reasons I like the brand. As per usual, Marni’s Spring collection started with minimalist, oversized silhouettes with extra long sleeves and asymmetric hems. Signature prints, jacquards and pops of unexpected colours came later on, proving the brand’s distinct design aesthetic is as strong as ever.
The rest of Milan tried to win the fashion crowd through various prints and patterns, but Canadian fashion house Ports 1961 had its eye for simple, solid colours. However, as the old saying goes, “simple doesn’t mean boring.”
Crisp shirts were accented with modern bib fronts, sheer layers balanced the smooth silhouettes, pleats produced a bit of volume, flat buttons and snaps added further interest. As the Ports 1961 ladies strutted, one could not deny the graceful act of the streamlined effect on the seamless structures of the pieces. It’s all about class.
Bright colours and light fabrics always come to mind when you think of Spring. Not so at Prada. The collection featured frayed patchworks of antique brocades on dresses, dark coats with contrast top stitching and in some pieces, replaced with leather trims – which were equally cool.
Was Miuccia Prada combining the past and the future? Or the old with the new? Who cares when the craftsmanship was on point (as always) and it’s this fabulous – not a term I throw around lightly. Also worth noticing: a gem – Gemma Ward, to be specific, returned to the runway after a six-year hiatus!
This article was published on Tongue in Chic. Image credit: Style.