Moving over from the impressive shows and presentations at MFW, we’ve finally reached the week in which we had highly anticipated, Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015!
Here are some of my favourite collections from PFW – some being the operative word because there were just too many beautiful collections to choose from. Fashion month definitely ended with the same bang it started with!
Acne Studios’ Creative Director Johnny Johansson wanted to highlight what the cool ladies want these days and explored “the youth’s relation to luxury” for spring. The Stockholm-based label was bold enough to play with colours, oversized, billowy silhouettes, a few graphic prints and fabrics such as organza silk, satin, terrycloth and various treatments of leather. The looks transitioned from business outfits, to party outfits, and even leisure wear – basically an entire wardrobe for the social calendar. Do like the cool ladies do and dress in Acne Studios from head-to-toe!
Sarah Burton took inspiration from her trips to Japan and her precious collection of antique kimonos. But this being a McQueen show, obviously there were no kawaii-style designs – Structured jacquard dresses were elegantly adorned with floral prints in a palette of pink, red and black. Strapped harnesses, cape jackets cut with slit open sleeves, dresses with armour-like sleeves and stiff skirts served to enhance the Samurai warrior feel. And so the theme developed, the models’ faces were covered in lacquer masks and hair slicked back into folded ponytails. It was a hauntingly gorgeous collection!
Chanel recreated a Parisian boulevard where models casually strolled while wearing countless interpretations of tweed suits each one as fabulous as the next whether they were rendered into double breasted blazers and boxy jackets with vibrant silk neckties, as well as wide-leg trousers and box-pleated skirts.
And there’s the finale, a staged protest in which models paraded out carrying placards that said things like ‘Boys should get pregnant too’ and ‘Tweed is better than tweet’. Honestly, I got confused and thought to myself: “Why is senseless activism being used to advertise these clothes?” – Sure, there were other slogans that expressed a more intellectual outlook such as ‘Feminism not Masochism’ and ‘He for She’, and I credit Lagerfeld for driving awareness but let’s admit, he’s certainly not a feminist himself and he’s even known for some of his misogynist quotes. It all seemed quite hypocritical and conflicting in messages.
I have all sorts of things to say about the F issue; nonetheless, I’ve included Chanel in this post because design is our main topic! Sometimes, I wish designers would just let the beauty of the clothes do the talking; there is something appealing in subtle and clever creativeness.
Dreamy, serene, soft and light are probably the best words to describe Haider Ackermann’s S/S 2015 collection. Ackermann veered away from his rich leathers and thick wools and showcased fluid pieces mostly made of silk. Colours too, were a bit more cheerful – pink, lilac and light grey replaced the designer’s usual dark colours. Details worth noticing include slouched and ruched pockets and sleeves, hems cut high in the centre back, wide ruffled layers bursting underneath his signature jackets, sheer chiffon sleeves, cinched and belted dresses. I certainly wouldn’t mind being caught up in a Haider Ackermann dream.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Inspired by her recent visit to the scientific research facility CERN where magnetic fields are created, Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen showcased spectacular 3D-printed garments and accessories “grown” with magnets. Injection moulding and laser cutting techniques were used to create these structures for dresses, jackets, trousers, skirts and tops. Unlike her previous collections, majority of her recent pieces were lot more wearable, save for a couple of awesome sculptural showpieces such as the crystal dresses. van Herpen has always been a designer who prefers to look forward than back – and I applaud her for that.
Celebrating women has been part of Lanvin’s DNA since its founder started the company, and this season, Alber Elbaz quite possibly found a way to please them all. Fit or loose, short or long, matte or metallic, there’s something for every Lanvin lover. Elbaz also delivered a series of updates on the T-shirt dress – one-shouldered, buttoned and slits were featured. Even the accessories and shoes covered a myriad of styles! I totally understand just why and how Elbaz is a much adored designer.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Maison Martin Margiela toned down its eccentric tendencies and combined femininity and masculinity which wasn’t a big one as concepts go, however there were still great ideas to pick out of the mix. Highlights for me were the hand-painted blooms on top of flower print skirts, nude body suit bases blended into garments, slim dresses and skirts crafted out of what looked like vintage Japanese fabrics, and jeans with the pockets on the rear sewn on backwards. I can’t wait to see the brand’s future collections now that the once-disgraced flamboyant designer John Galliano has been recently appointed as the new Creative Director for MMM and we couldn’t be more pleased!
VIKTOR & ROLF
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren got bitten by the sportswear bug too, but they created an eye-catching collection of bike shorts, leggings, and low-slung wide-leg trousers with tracksuit-style stripes down the side. As expected, they came with extravagance with their sculpted dresses and their gathered and twisted floral tops, scrunched in varying asymmetric ways (not exactly a gym junkie’s first choice for a workout). If you look at the pieces and are not amazed, you’ve probably never sat behind a sewing machine. Their usual disregard for form and ability to manipulate garments make my brain explode. To those of you who might find some looks a bit obscure, remember that fashion is all about experimentation and fun!
Image credit: Style.com & T Magazine; original article published in Tongue in Chic.