Now that New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 has ended, it’s time to dish on my favourite collections spotted throughout the past week! Below are 8 designers and brands that wowed me:
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Looking for inspiration for his spring collection, Phillip Lim had to search no further than, well, his bedroom! Everything was boudoir-inspired, from textiles to accessories. Quilted cloqué fabrics mimicked mattresses and purses that resembled pillowcases. I particularly liked the way he used the dressmaking and darting technique to create pieces in curvy, three-dimensional shapes. Now that’s the stuff dreams are made of.
Alexander Wang always equates to something new. Countless collections have incorporated sneakers into the line-up for several years, but Wang has upped the ante with his spring collection. He took the elements of mostly Adidas, Nike, and Jordan shoes – such as fluoro mesh, techno weaves, green-trimmed accents, rubber materials – and made polished clothes, handbags and high heels out of them! The strength of this collection was definitely in its textures rather than its silhouettes. Totally clever and desirable! (Insert shut-up-and-take-my-money meme here)
Want to know how to wear stripes on stripes without looking hideous? Take a cue from Altuzarra’s collection and smart styling. He made feminine style for spring something of an art form. The standout pieces for me were the marvellous paneled coat inlaid with leather trim and asymmetric black and white wrap dresses and skirts which were all made from Moroccan Berberes blankets. He sure knows sexy with his dishevelled tailoring mixed with plunging necklines and thigh-high slits!
To be honest, I’m not fond of Carolina Herrera’s designs because they’re too girly for my taste, so to see her use her favourite floral motif in a modern way for her spring collection was quite a treat for me! The huge flower prints audaciously expanded out onto the artistically crafted pieces and she even used the glistening effect of dew petals for her embellishments. Above all, Herrera had me at her photographic images of flowers which she maneuvred on techno jersey and crepe fabrics.
I loved how Creative Director Josep Font played with colours, volume, proportion, illusion, and transformed haute couture shapes to ready-to-wear silhouettes for Delpozo. My favourites include the ultra wide red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, the off-shoulder dress with sculpted sleeves and intricate embellishments at the hem, the slick monochromatic blue ensembles with origami-like details. I can’t believe it was just his third collection for NYFW. If you’re not familiar with the brand, you might want to start checking it out now. Expect more amazingness to come!
Peter Som presented a collection full of easy, uber chic looks one could envision in all kinds of warm weather locales. Think shirt dress with an apron-esque skirt overlay, swimsuit topped with a translucent coat, crisp white button down shirt with flouncy short skirt, and a stylish riff on the prevalent duster coat trend. Som’s main colour for the season was muted olive green and most of the clothes came rendered in a repeating rose floral print. Also worth noting: Christian Louboutin for Peter Som silver loafer sandals.
What Prabal Gurung did with his collection was nothing short of spectacular. Like his previous designs, spring was inspired by his native Nepal, with textures and colours inspired by a journey into the Himalayas. Some references include trekking maps, mountain landscapes and the rhododendron flower – which he used as the basis for embroideries and jacquards. There were bright colourful panels and ostrich feather accents too. Just watching his vision is a real pleasure!
ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO
It’s all about architectural lines and asymmetrical accents at Zero + Maria Cornejo. I was impressed by Cornejo’s fine detailing and tailoring. She went for an easy breezy line-up of relaxed silhouettes, including an oversized black and white neoprene waistcoat, a strapless dress with deep pockets, a boxy pullover with cascading hemline paired with slim pants, and off-the-shoulder top worn with pants with frills suspended from the waist. It’s nice to know that more designers are embracing slouchy silhouettes for men and women. Finally, we can breathe.
Image credit: NYTimes; original article published in Tongue in Chic.